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On day six, it was time to move to Odense.
Surprise, surprise! The sun greeted us yet again when we woke up. And as much as I am eager to tell you everything about our first day in the hometown of the great Hans Christian Andersen, my comments will come a little later.
Here is a ”silent” tour in the meanwhile 🙂
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As previously mentionned in my last posts, the incredible weather has got me running late on this blog. Tonight, I hope to post the pictures of days 6, 7, 8 and 9. And possibly start completing my previous ”pictures only” posts. I’ll make sure to publish a note as soon as I get there.
In the meanwhile, I hope you’ll enjoy the pictures for Day 5. They are mainly of Vikingeskibsmuseet (a museum about viking ships), and Roskilde’s Museum.
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Already day four of our journey…
As previously mentionned in my last post, we are running on a lucky streak, weather wise… When we arrived in Copenhagen on day 1, the forecast announced a couple of rainy days, starting when we were to get to Roskilde.
I expected a quiet day at our Airbnb apartment, with much time to catch up on my day-to-day posts, but so far, the clouds have been parting everywhere we go, so we just make the most of it, and spend as much time outdoors as we can.
So here is my selection of pictures for day 4. I’ll post a notice as soon as I fill in the comments and descriptions…
For now, we’ll just keep enjoying this amazing Danish springtime!
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Day three started with a little scare, since this was the view from our balcony. I thought I might have broken Copenhagen! Luckily it seemed to have been more of a smoke-show than anything else, because we didn’t find any mention on the fire on the internet, and everything was under control when we walked downtown.
But let’s begin at the start.
After a good night of sleep, we were surprised to find the sky absolutely cloudless again. It was still pretty (understatement) windy, and the temperature was still a little frisky, but it was very promising.
So after two cups of tea for me (coffee for David), we packed up what we needed for the day, and left the apartment, decided to go check for ourselves where that thick smoke was coming from.
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On our way, we walked in front of the Glyptotek. We didn’t have time to visit it (again), but if you ever come to Copenhagen, and love visual arts, I really recommend making a stop there. For one thing, the Carlsberg family has provided the museum with an impressive collection of Rodin scuptures. The place is huge, and filled with masterpieces of all kinds. Just a friendly advice, though… If you buy yourself a ticket to the Glyptotek, make sure you have time on your hands, because you won’t want to leave for hours!!
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Many canals run through the Danish capital, and above are just a couple of the numerous bridges that pedestrians and cyclists use to move around the city.
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… And as you can see here, people are quite happy with the easy access to the different neighbourhoods!
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Our walk along the water took us back to Nyhavn, and I thought I’d take David to the hostel when I had stayed during my last trip in 2019. The Bedwood Hostel is a little gem, hidden along the famous canal, and probably the only way I ever could ever afford to sleep at Nyhavn. The advertising isn’t very flamboyant, when you walk in front of the adress, but a few steps away, in the inner-yard, you discover all the charm of the place. The staff is super welcoming (even if you’re not a twenty-something kid discovering the world). And if you are comfortable with sharing a dortoir with a couple of fellow travelers, it is quite cozy, and affordable!
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Next stop was at Kultorvet, to pick up some yummy cheese at Osten Ved Kultorvet.
Unfortunately, when I entered the small shop, the man behind the counter wasn’t the owner. I had doubts at first – it had been four yours since my last visit, after all – but Mikael couldn’t have changed that much.
It so happened that it was his only day off, and when I explained that I was from Montreal, and had made it a tradition to come by everytime I traveled to Denmark, the man at the counter started chatting, suggesting places to go, and asking about my previous trips, while preparing my Viking Blue and Fyrmester (both a-ma-zing Danish cheeses) packages.
He even tried to call Mikael, to let him know I was at the store. I meant to tell him that the owner might not even remember me after all this time, but he dialed before I could do so.
I promised to try to come again when we’d be back in Copenhagen at the end of our little tour, and we left the store.
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There was one last spot where I wanted to take David, before our feet gave up on us. But we still hadn’t been able to change our phones’ SIM cards, and I knew we’d need them working as we would start moving around the country.
So we stopped in a Telia store. We very much doubted that they would help us, not seeking business with the company, and not even having purchased the SIM cards from them.
But surprisingly, when I explained our situation, the young man that welcomed us in the store picked our cell phones, and our cards, and took care of everything in no time. No questions asked. He then offered us coffee, and started chatting about our trip, and how his brother had a stand in Torvehallerne, a fantastic food court just a couple of minutes walking away from the store.
So we walked in doubting we’d get any help, and came out with our phones working in Denmark, and a great new place to pick up stuff for dinner!
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Unfortunately, we didn’t find the guy’s brother… But we did get a ”pain batard” (bastard bread). And call me childish, I thought that was funny.
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Because Danish days never seem to come to an end starting in May, we still had time to go to a park I wanted to show David.
We cheated a little… We took the metro to Nørrebro Station. When we got there, I was confused. I clearly remembered Superkillen, and it looked nothing like the above. I did remember the swings, and the murals, but where was the rest of it?
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We walked a little, and I realized that we had just entered the park from the opposite side, compared to my first visit.
So here it is, Superkilen with all the cherry blossoms making it even prettier.
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And everything to keep the young active in the heart of the city!
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It was getting late, and we needed to get back ”home”. On our way, we caught this mini-mini-mini escalator. And to save you a couple of minutes, we did the research, and the smallest escalator in the world is in Japan, and has 5 steps! Oh, Denmark, you were so close to a World record!!
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And, finally… We got back to the apartment, to feast on our ”pain batard” and our cheese and other little things.
It was time to charge the batteries for the next day to come!
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Day two started rather smoothly.
A three weeks tour around Denmark is a marathon, not a sprint and we figured we didn’t need to be out and about as soon as the sun rose, although I was awake when the first rays appeared over the horizon.
We left the apartment a little before noon, well rested and ready for a second round.
David suggested that we went to Tivoli Gardens, because the last time we had visited it together, it was in late September, and not quite as impressive as we imagined it would be in May.
I agreed, but we had second thoughts, when we arrived near the entrance;
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It was Sunday, and the weather was nice, so of course, we weren’t the only ones who got that idea. We didn’t feel like waiting to get in the park, and it would probably be way too crowded anyway, so our visit was postponed to the evening, hoping to catch a few pictures of the park all lit up.
So, instead, we stopped at Copenhagen’s Central train station to grab some lunch, and decided to go to one of my favorite spots; Kultorvet.
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We walked along one of the (if not the) best known streets of Copenhagen: Strøget. If you like shopping, this is the place for you!
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I’m not much of a Gucci or Prada girl, or a shopper in general, and much prefer these less crowded allées, with their older and colorful buildings!
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We also walked by Rundetarn (The Round Tower), a must, on your to-do list if you ever visit the capital.
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One of the reasons I wanted to go to Kultorvet, was to visit my favorite cheese store: Osten Ved Kultorvet… Unfortunately, it was closed, and we’ll have to go again today. I can’t wait to meet with the owner again. I’ve come here for a piece of Viking Blue and Fyremester cheese on each of my previous trips, and even if it’s been four years, I still hope Mikael will remember ”the girl from Canada”, hehehehe.
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Because it was just around the corner, we made a detour to take a few pictures of the apartment I had stayed at with J, in 2017.
Souvenirs, souvenirs…
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Since we still had time on our hands before a second attempt at entering Tivoli Gardens, we decided to give Copenhagen’s ”Believe it or not” museum. Because traveling doesn’t need to be serious at all times, right?
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An egg the equivalent of 183 chicken eggs… My worst nightmare!
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A woman statue entirely made of buttons!
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A vampire slayer kit!
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And last, but not least… ZOLTAR!!
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We also tried the Hans Christian Andersen Experience… But… Hum, not quite worth it, if you already know pretty much anything about the legend already. Keep your kroners for something more exciting, hehehehe.
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It was finally time to go back to Tivoli, but not before having one of these equally beautiful and delicious Smørrebrød! Yum!!
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Finally Tivoli… I’ll let you scroll through the pictures! I really wanted to get great pictures with all the evening lights on, but the Danish sun is a tricky one. And it just won’t go to sleep. Even if the Internets said it was supposed to be in bed by 8:59 PM, it still was asking for a glass of water by 9:15, when we finally left…
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Finally, my fifth visit to Denmark… And it was about time!
As you might know, my last trip dated back to May of 2019, not long before a little thing called covid hit us without warning. Little did I know that it would keep me away from my favorite big little country for so long.
Four years!
But we’re back, and though it seems like the Danes had a rather rough springtime start, the clouds parted as soon as our plane landed in Copenhagen. It was a long and weird trip (that’s a whole seperate story), but now we’re here, and the new journey can begin.
We were off to a great start, when we reached the customs’ desk (I bet you’ve never been excited by that part of any of your trips), and I noticed that the customs’ agents were stamping the passports of the travelers ahead of us in the file.
Note that during a previous trip, I had asked for the stamping of my passport, and had been told that the customs didn’t do it anymore in Denmark, which had been a huge disappointment for me.
So when I got all enthusiastic as we got to the stand, the agent started to chat with us. He was quite impressed, because, as he mentionned, most travelers just come to Denmark as a step in a Europeen or Scandinavian tour. The mention of my fifth tour of DK put a wide smile on his face, and the stamp he left in my passport, one on mine!
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After a quick stop at the airport’s 7 Eleven to get Danish SIM cards (again, another story… I’m still angry at Virgin), we were off to our home for the next three days.
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Grethe, our host, was waiting for us at the sixth floor of her building. She was kind enough not to laugh when she saw us panting our way up the last couple of steps. She welcomed us warmly into her home, and showed us around.
The apartment is nothing short of a museum. Grethe has so many artworks – paintings, drawings, pictures, scuptures, ceramique, and fancy glass pieces… The place is also a paradise for book lovers, given that you can read Danish LOL. I understand most titles, but I’ll have to settle with a small children’s book if I ever have time to sit back and read a little before we move on.
After making ourselves at home, we decided to take a walk downtown, just in case the wonderful (yet quite windy) weather wouldn’t stick.
I had to admit that after four years, I was a little rusty. After my first four visits, I didn’t need a map of the city anymore, unless I needed to get somewhere very precise. I knew my way around the different neighbourhoods, knowing where the major buildings were, and keeping an eye on the differents highest towers.
We did walk almost pointlessly for a while. We’ll blame that on the more than twenty four hours without any sleep!
But finally, I did find our way back to the first spots I wanted to see.
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First stop was Kongens Nytorv. The above pictures might not look particularly impressive, but it was the first time I saw the famous downtown round about without any construction.
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Though not a delicacy, a Danish hot dog always sits at the top of my list of to-do things when I arrive in Copenhagen. And after a couple of hours of walking, these were very welcome!
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Second stop, the very (VERY) well and widely known Nyhavn canal. Most probably one of the two Danish emblems you have seen, even if you’ve never paid attention to the country (the other one being the Little Mermaid, of course).
And Mindeankret (The Memorial Anchor), the reminder monument of the Danish sailors’ lives who lost their lives at sea, during WWII.
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Ravhuset (The house of Amber), a classic for me in Copenhagen. Because amber is one of the emblems of Denmark, and I don’t care what other countries say; Danish amber is the best (and Danes will agree with me LOL)!
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The Marble Chapel. Again, first time I could see the beautiful church with a load of scaffolds around it. A must-see, if you ask me, and you can get in for free (but I recommend making a donation).
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On our way back to the apartment, we did make a few stops, not necessarely worth of taking pictures… We helped a group of men who, and I quote ”were drunk, and about to get high, and just wanted to have a souvenir of their day together the next morning”, by taking their picture (I was voted ”Best photographer” for said bunch of pictures, but I am not sure if the title still stands this morning).
We checked that some of my favorite stores had made it through the pandemic (so far, so good!). We went shopping for everyday products we just couldn’t (or didn’t want to bother) travel with. And we went to the grocery store to get something for dinner.
By 4 PM, we were completely burnt out, and could keep our eyes open. I have no clue how we managed to eat and not fall asleep face first in our plates.
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Fiskfrikadeller with a pasta salad, and (of course) remoulade!
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This was taken just prior to losing counsciousness under our duvet.
I hope you’ll enjoy following us along our trip, and I hope to keep up with the daily posting, hehehehe.
I’ll try to at least come and share a couple of pictures every morning.
This morning, I woke to a cloud-covered sky, and I soon understood it would be the kind of day when you just take a break from running around, and you just let your batteries charge up for the next adventure.
It was time to leave Silkeborg, and move to Herning, just a short half hour train ride away.
As you might have seen in my previous posts, most of the train stations I visited in Denmark have this charming red-brick oldish look. It was quite a surprise to find myself in such a modern building after hopping off the wagon.
My home for the night was just a couple of minutes of walking away from the station, and I went to drop my backpack, planning to spend the afternoon walking around town, the showers not being strong enough to force me to stay in all day.
The top-floor window was mine… For the night.
The street were amazingly quiet and empty when I left the apartment. I knew it had nothing to do with the rain… Danes are used to rainy, windy days, and the weather doesn’t usually affect their outdoor activities.
A sign outside a pub answered my question.
It was Store Bededag. The holiday celebrated almost exclusively in Denmark takes place the fourth Friday after Easter. I remember clearly my first encounter with Store Bededag in Odense, in 2016. Just like today, I had found the streets empty, and all the stores closed for the day.
The walk was nice, but I did have a little problem… I only had half a bag of mini almond cookies and my bottle of water, and a fast building appetite. Of course, I could have stopped in one of the few restaurants that were open, but the choice was scarce, and I didn’t want to spend that much money…
So I kept walking, letting my feet guide me, confident I would eventually find what I was looking for.
And I did! For just under 20$, I came back with a little feast.
For this little money, some bananas, cold cuts, cheese, two tebirkes (Danish pastries), potatoe salad, fisk frikadeller (Danish fish cakes), a bottle of remoulade AND an Easter brewed beer… I think that’s quite a deal!
Fisk frikadeller with remoulade is a common meal, in Denmark. And one I don’t get tired of, when I travel through Vikingland… It is delicious and very filling after a long day spent outdoors. It is also a cheap option compared to the pricy restaurants in touristic areas.
I ate my dinner in my little home away from home, and enjoyed a movie, snuggled under a warm blanket… The perfect ending to a quiet rainy day.
The rest was welcome, as I was about to move farther West on Saturday morning. To a little town I have never set foot in before… Thisted, here I come!
We have a saying in French, “Les jours se suivent, et ne se ressemblent pas.” Which doesn’t seem to be the case here… Days are going by, and although I know I will eventually wake up to a greyish sky and have to plan indoor activities, this morning the sun was still shining brightly!
Yay!
One great thing about Denmark, is that it is an incredibly small country, in size. And the network of trains and buses routes is so well developed, that you can basically wake up one morning, walk to the train station and move to the other end of the country in very little time. Well, at least when you are used to Canada’s wideness!
So, this morning, after a tall glass of ginger-carrot juice and a warm shower, I headed to Hobro. Now, Hobro is just about 2h of train away from Silkeborg, and it had the advantage of making me spend a little bit of time in a town I had the chance to visit a couple of times in my past trips; Aarhus!
There was still a little bit of time before catching my next train, and I got myself a light snack to nibble on, while enjoying the always amazing view.
Have I mentionned rape fields before? Oh, I have? They’re still pretty!!
Another unexplainable love of mine… Tall windmills.
Shortly after, we were stopping in Hobro. ”Why Hobro?” you might ask, since it is not a very big, nor very touristic destination. But just outside of town is an old Viking site I really wanted to visit… But we’ll get there.
Welcome to Hobro!
Google had told me it was an (about) 25 minutes of walking to get to Fyrkat’s Viking fortress ruins. I have a feeling Google thinks I am 6’8” and that speed-walking is a passion of mine. But I tend to stop every now and then to take pictures (or check if I am still following the right path).
Downtown Hobro
So after something more like 40 minutes of wandering, the first signs of the Viking site were in sight!!
Notice the nice Dannebrog flying proudly in the Spring wind! How welcoming….
Fyrkat’s Viking center is divided in two different sites. First, the reconstitution of a Viking property, and the actual ancient fortress ruins. I had to start with the village, and I made friends right away!
But not everybody was happy to see a crazy Canadian Girl touring around… And I soon had the visit of my hens’ less enthusiastic rooster!
The different buildings on the site, give a feeling of what a Viking’s village once looked like. I am guessing that during summertime, there is a lot more animation. But today, it was rather quiet, and I had pretty much the whole place to myself!
Model of the traditional Viking long houses.
Probably some kind of Viking Scrabble, for the long winter nights.
The Fyrkat fortress site is about a kilometer from the Viking center. You can drive there, but I walked, as usual. And it was well worth the extra stroll, since the trail leading to Fyrkat runs along the water, and it seems like Hobro is where Denmark’s swans gather to mate. There were couples of the great white birds everywhere! I wish I had caught a good picture of them, but they were too far to do justice to the sight…
Entering Fyrkat’s site…
Long house reconstitution.
My pictures are not as impressive as the aerial views you can find on Google, but the feeling of walking in the middle of the circular grass-covered fortifications was pretty amazing. I coud feel the history under my feet, and I spent a long time, just imagining how it was to live, back these days…
Borrowed from The Internets
I stopped at the gift shop on my way back, to pick a souvenir for Little Bro. Backpack traveling is a bit restraining when it comes to finding interesting things to bring back, but with a little imagination, there is always a way not to come back empty-handed. I’d post a picture of what I bought, but it would spoil the surprise, wouldn’t it?
Time to walk back to the train station…
A little refreshment for the road…
After the swans, I was greeted by a flock of crows, when I came back to the train station. The black birds are not an unusual sight, neither in Canada or in Denmark, but seeing so many of them nesting in the tall trees was impressive. And loud!
Dang loud…
Which made riding in the Stillezone all the more enjoyable!
Last stop, before returning to Silkeborg… I always have to raise my glass (or bottle) to some dear friends of mine, when I pass by Randers. The other travelers probably wondered what I was doing, but Mrs Completely and her Viking will understand!
Skål!! And here’s to another day of fun wanderings to come!
Again, jetlag played around with me, and this morning, I was up at 4 o’clock, before the sun even thought of peeking over the horizon… But the ever-present birds of Silkeborg were already rehearsing, and I caught them preparing for the amazing day to come!
After a couple of hours more, sleeping soundly under my comfy duvet, the sun was up, the sky was blue, and before getting ready for a day of adventures, I was treated with a tall glass of vitamins with a gingery punch by my host.
Skål!
The weather was perfect for a boat trip to my next must-see spot: Himmelbjerget! So my host and I walked downtown to catch one of the excusion boats, after packing a light lunch for our hike.
Canoes and kayaks can easily be rented, all around Silkeborg, but I felt a little lazy!
The Hjejlen is one of the oldest paddle steamer in operation…
Some people were braver than I was… Well, she was! Mouahahaha
Paddle boards are also very popular on the different lakes around Silkeborg!
No worries when things are “Viking-safe”!
The ride from Silkeborg to Himmelbjerget is about 1h15 long, and our little excursion had a couple of stops in different villages along the way. I highly recommend to sail your way to Himmelbjerget if you decide to go see it from your eyes… The journey is definately worth it! Such a quiet, and relaxing trip on the calm water…
And after a little more than an hour of sailing, there it was on the horizon… “Heaven Mountain”… The peak of Denmark!
A little geographic lesson, before we take our hike up Himmelbjerget.
Denmark is the 4th flattest country in the world. Not in Scandinavia, not in Europe… In the world! It has its advantages… It probably made it much easier build a railroad network around the country, and it is definately a plus if you decide to bike yourself around Vikingland. But if you love tall mountains, you’ll soon find out that your options to reach Denmark’s heights, are very few.
Himmelbjerget is recognized as the highest point in Denmark. But if you’ve done a little research online, you probably know that this is not really accurate.
Ejer Baunehøj is, at 170 meters above sea level. But although scientifics gave Ejer Baunehøj the (not so) impressive title, back in 1874, most people will still agree that Himmelbjerget is the real deal (although being 23 meters short of the gold medal).
Welcome to Himmelbjerget!
Although 147 meters might sound like a smooth hike, don’t be fooled. The walk up the summit is rather steep, and you might need a couple of breaks to have a sip of water and catch your breath, if you are not top shape!
But it is well worth the effort, and you’ll see that the view gets more and more amazing as you make your way to the very top.
Tower at the top of Himmelbjerget.
A little boutique is waiting for you at the top of the mountain, selling all kinds of reminders of your heroic way up. You can also climb an extra couple of stairs to visit the top of the tower for a reasonable 10 Kroner (2$).
Time to enjoy the amazing postcard view, from the peak of Denmark!
Just a couple of minutes of walk down the peak of Himmelbjerget, you’ll find the mountain’s Hotel, where you can enjoy a good meal or just a cup of tea or coffee, in the middle of a couple of more souvenir shops, a children playground and a nice picnic area.
Almost there… But there’s no rush, right?
Kid friendly, as most Danish attractions are.
The Himmelbjerget Hotel
Of course, everything good in life has an end, and after taking a little snack, and enjoying a nice tea on the hotel’s terasse, it was time to walk our way back down to our boat stop.
My chance-encountered fur friend seemed disappointed I had to leave, too!
And here are some of the last sights on our way back to Silkeborg…
Yet another fun day spent in Denmark… And tomorrow, I’m going to Hobro, and you don’t want to miss this Viking historic site!
Today, my host here in Silkeborg, took me for a long walk, in and around town. What is most impressive about Silkeborg, is that within one or two minutes, you can go from the heart of the city, and find yourself in the forest, by the water.
Welcome to my quiet neighbourhood, in Silkeborg!
Silkeborg is not a very touristic destination. If you are looking into spending some time in Denmark, it certainly wasn’t in your top ten list of must-see cities. I won’t blame you, this is my fourth visit to Vikingland, and Silkeborg was a surprise in my improvised tour!
To say the truth, it wasn’t even my idea… Not long before I flew over from Canada, I had posted an ad on the CouchSurfing site, stating that I would soon be in Denmark, and would appreciate if people offered to host me for a couple of days, to discover new places!
And that’s how I found my room in the middle of Jutland.
When I told my Helsingør host that I was moving to Silkeborg, she assured me I would enjoy my stay… It was all about nature. Luscious forests and lakes all around. And she was absolutely right.
But first, a little walk downtown!
In every city in Denmark, you’ll find at least a torv, or torvet, which means “square”. And it is the place to start, if you want to take the city’s beat. During my stay, there was a market at torvet… International delicacies from around the world, people selling all kinds of craftings…
Right across torvet, you can find a building I assume to be the late city hall. It is now a restaurant, but the building still looks stunning.
And I’d like to tell you more about the cute small statue surounded with fountains, that is sitting just in front of it, but all I found online was its name…
Drengen og skidpadden (simply “The boy and the turtle”)
Two churches can be found right in the heart of Silkeborg too. Silkeborgs Kirke is a Lutherian Church…
A mothers/toddlers meeting was taking place when we walked in… And I didn’t want to disturb anyone, so these are the only pictures I got the chance to take.
Silkeborg’s Catholic Church
I can’t help but light a candle whenever I can…
Impressive organ, given the size of the town…
This picture doesn’t do justice to the beautiful stained-glass windows… Sorry!
We then walked through Kulturhusets most colorful backyard. Hosting different live shows, artistic exhibitions and popular gatherings, I could easily understand why the locals enjoyed getting together in this very special place!
Kærlighed, litterally “Love” tagged on one of Kulturhusets walls.
Just a couple of minutes of walk, away from Kulturhuset, we walked out of the city, and into the woods.
I must say, one of the most memorable things I’ll take with me from the Silkeborg area, is the constant singing of the birds, at all times of day (and night). If you don’t manage to relax, sitting by the water, enjoying this view… Well, you need professional help, my friend!
Just like anywhere else, in Denmark, design, and art in general is omnipresent. Danes like pretty things (don’t we all?) and they make sure to suround themselves with them, in the privacy of their homes, and in public areas… Here are a couple of examples.
Pretty hand painted rocks on sale!
Camel sculpture at the public library.
Amazing mural overlooking a hot dog stand… Hmmm Hot dogs!
View from the heart of Silkeborg to the lake…
Another thing I love about Danes is their very particular humor. Unless they are drunk, most Danes don’t give the impression of being very expressive people. But Danish humor is very straight forward and playful. The contrast makes if really funny… At least to me!
Knock knock? Or not… LOL (Danes are very welcoming people, just sayin’)
Stress reliever poo-poo anyone?
Translation: ”Grrr no poo-poo here!” You’ve been warned!
One last stop on our way back home… Not an unusual sight, but it is still surprising to see the quality of some of the furniture left on the side of the road, for the taking.
Translation ”Free! Take what you can use”
And tomorrow… We’re going to the top of Denmark! At long last…
The Turtle's Journey... 