Bye bye Roskilde, hello Odense!

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On day six, it was time to move to Odense.

Surprise, surprise! The sun greeted us yet again when we woke up. And as much as I am eager to tell you everything about our first day in the hometown of the great Hans Christian Andersen, my comments will come a little later.

Here is a ”silent” tour in the meanwhile 🙂

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Following the Vikings’ steps…

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As previously mentionned in my last posts, the incredible weather has got me running late on this blog. Tonight, I hope to post the pictures of days 6, 7, 8 and 9. And possibly start completing my previous ”pictures only” posts. I’ll make sure to publish a note as soon as I get there.

In the meanwhile, I hope you’ll enjoy the pictures for Day 5. They are mainly of Vikingeskibsmuseet (a museum about viking ships), and Roskilde’s Museum.

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Diving into history…

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Another beautiful morning in Copenhagen…

Sipping on my warm cup of tea, I took one last long gaze at our amazing view over the city, knowing we’d be back in the capital at the end of our trip.

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But it was time to move on, and the next step in our journey was Roskilde. So we packed our bags, left a little note to our host on the kitchen table, and locked the door behind us one last time.

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A short (about half an hour long) train ride later, we arrived in Roskilde. I had always wanted to stop in Roskilde which is mainly known for its famous summer music festival (we were a little early for that), but never had done it in my previous four trips.

Our Airbnb apartment was in a quiet residential neighbourhood, at walking distance of pretty much everything interesting in town. It was nice and cozy, and after discussing a little with the owner, we headed out to explore downtown Roskilde.

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Room/living room, all you need when you’re always out and around….

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Our colorful kitchenette

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The first obvious stop was Roskilde’s Cathedral (Domkirke, in Danish). I didn’t know much about  the cathedral, other than that it was an absolutely awesome building seen from outside.

The entry cost 70 Kroner (about 14 Canadian Dollars), and my jaw dropped the second we walked in.

About 800 years of the Danish history lay there, before our eyes, with the tombs of most Danish monarchs, in different alcoves and crypts.

Seriously in my top ten ways to spend 14$!

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The King’s Door

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If you’ve ever watched the Danish movie ”A Royal Affair” (En Kongelig Affære) with Mads Mikkelsen, you might remember that the story revolved around the life of King Christian the 7th… And this above is his tomb.

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After taking in so much history, a nice walk was welcome. So we just wandered around, and enjoyed the warm yet windy spring afternoon.

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We stopped in a little fast food restaurant to grab a box of fries to nibble on…

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And immediately made a friend!

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We noticed a couple of these springs along our walk, and I had a flash. A ”spring” in Danish is called ”kilde”, and my host later confirmed that the name of the city was related to these once considered sacred springs. Roskilde is actually Ro’s (actually Hroar, who was the founder of the city) kilde (spring).

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As it always seems to, time flew by and before we knew it, it was already time to find a grocery store, grab something for dinner and head back to our apartment.

Our feet needed a little rest, and after a hot shower, we just dove under our cloud-like duvets. To be ready for yet another day of adventures!

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Another (long) walk around town…

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Day three started with a little scare, since this was the view from our balcony. I thought I might have broken Copenhagen! Luckily it seemed to have been more of a smoke-show than anything else, because we didn’t find any mention on the fire on the internet, and everything was under control when we walked downtown.

But let’s begin at the start.

After a good night of sleep, we were surprised to find the sky absolutely cloudless again. It was still pretty (understatement) windy, and the temperature was still a little frisky, but it was very promising.

So after two cups of tea for me (coffee for David), we packed up what we needed for the day, and left the apartment, decided to go check for ourselves where that thick smoke was coming from.

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On our way, we walked in front of the Glyptotek. We didn’t have time to visit it (again), but if you ever come to Copenhagen, and love visual arts, I really recommend making a stop there. For one thing, the Carlsberg family has provided the museum with an impressive collection of Rodin scuptures. The place is huge, and filled with masterpieces of all kinds. Just a friendly advice, though… If you buy yourself a ticket to the Glyptotek, make sure you have time on your hands, because you won’t want to leave for hours!!

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Many canals run through the Danish capital, and above are just a couple of the numerous bridges that pedestrians and cyclists use to move around the city.

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… And as you can see here, people are quite happy with the easy access to the different neighbourhoods!

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Our walk along the water took us back to Nyhavn, and I thought I’d take David to the hostel when I had stayed during my last trip in 2019. The Bedwood Hostel is a little gem, hidden along the famous canal, and probably the only way I ever could ever afford to sleep at Nyhavn. The advertising isn’t very flamboyant, when you walk in front of the adress, but a few steps away, in the inner-yard, you discover all the charm of the place. The staff is super welcoming (even if you’re not a twenty-something kid discovering the world). And if you are comfortable with sharing a dortoir with a couple of fellow travelers, it is quite cozy, and affordable!

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Next stop was at Kultorvet, to pick up some yummy cheese at Osten Ved Kultorvet.

Unfortunately, when I entered the small shop, the man behind the counter wasn’t the owner. I had doubts at first – it had been four yours since my last visit, after all – but Mikael couldn’t have changed that much.

It so happened that it was his only day off, and when I explained that I was from Montreal, and had made it a tradition to come by everytime I traveled to Denmark, the man at the counter started chatting, suggesting places to go, and asking about my previous trips, while preparing my Viking Blue and Fyrmester (both a-ma-zing Danish cheeses) packages.

He even tried to call Mikael, to let him know I was at the store. I meant to tell him that the owner might not even remember me after all this time, but he dialed before I could do so.

I promised to try to come again when we’d be back in Copenhagen at the end of our little tour, and we left the store.

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There was one last spot where I wanted to take David, before our feet gave up on us. But we still hadn’t been able to change our phones’ SIM cards, and I knew we’d need them working as we would start moving around the country.

So we stopped in a Telia store. We very much doubted that they would help us, not seeking business with the company, and not even having purchased the SIM cards from them.

But surprisingly, when I explained our situation, the young man that welcomed us in the store picked our cell phones, and our cards, and took care of everything in no time. No questions asked. He then offered us coffee, and started chatting about our trip, and how his brother had a stand in Torvehallerne, a fantastic food court just a couple of minutes walking away from the store.

So we walked in doubting we’d get any help, and came out with our phones working in Denmark, and a great new place to pick up stuff for dinner!

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Unfortunately, we didn’t find the guy’s brother… But we did get a ”pain batard” (bastard bread). And call me childish, I thought that was funny.

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Because Danish days never seem to come to an end starting in May, we still had time to go to a park I wanted to show David.

We cheated a little… We took the metro to Nørrebro Station. When we got there, I was confused. I clearly remembered Superkillen, and it looked nothing like the above. I did remember the swings, and the murals, but where was the rest of it?

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We walked a little, and I realized that we had just entered the park from the opposite side, compared to my first visit.

So here it is, Superkilen with all the cherry blossoms making it even prettier.

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And everything to keep the young active in the heart of the city!

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It was getting late, and we needed to get back ”home”. On our way, we caught this mini-mini-mini escalator. And to save you a couple of minutes, we did the research, and the smallest escalator in the world is in Japan, and has 5 steps! Oh, Denmark, you were so close to a World record!!

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And, finally… We got back to the apartment, to feast on our ”pain batard” and our cheese and other little things.

It was time to charge the batteries for the next day to come!

An evening at Tivoli Gardens…

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Day two started rather smoothly.

A three weeks tour around Denmark is a marathon, not a sprint and we figured we didn’t need to be out and about as soon as the sun rose, although I was awake when the first rays appeared over the horizon.

We left the apartment a little before noon, well rested and ready for a second round.

David suggested that we went to Tivoli Gardens, because the last time we had visited it together, it was in late September, and not quite as impressive as we imagined it would be in May.

I agreed, but we had second thoughts, when we arrived near the entrance;

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It was Sunday, and the weather was nice, so of course, we weren’t the only ones who got that idea. We didn’t feel like waiting to get in the park, and it would probably be way too crowded anyway, so our visit was postponed to the evening, hoping to catch a few pictures of the park all lit up.

So, instead, we stopped at Copenhagen’s Central train station to grab some lunch, and decided to go to one of my favorite spots; Kultorvet.

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We walked along one of the (if not the) best known streets of Copenhagen: Strøget. If you like shopping, this is the place for you!

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I’m not much of a Gucci or Prada girl, or a shopper in general, and much prefer these less crowded allées, with their older and colorful buildings!

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We also walked by Rundetarn (The Round Tower), a must, on your to-do list if you ever visit the capital.

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One of the reasons I wanted to go to Kultorvet, was to visit my favorite cheese store: Osten Ved Kultorvet… Unfortunately, it was closed, and we’ll have to go again today. I can’t wait to meet with the owner again. I’ve come here for a piece of Viking Blue and Fyremester cheese on each of my previous trips, and even if it’s been four years, I still hope Mikael will remember ”the girl from Canada”, hehehehe.

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Because it was just around the corner, we made a detour to take a few pictures of the apartment I had stayed at with J, in 2017.

Souvenirs, souvenirs…

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Since we still had time on our hands before a second attempt at entering Tivoli Gardens, we decided to give Copenhagen’s ”Believe it or not” museum. Because traveling doesn’t need to be serious at all times, right?

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An egg the equivalent of 183 chicken eggs… My worst nightmare!

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A woman statue entirely made of buttons!

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A vampire slayer kit!

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And last, but not least… ZOLTAR!!

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We also tried the Hans Christian Andersen Experience… But… Hum, not quite worth it, if you already know pretty much anything about the legend already. Keep your kroners for something more exciting, hehehehe.

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It was finally time to go back to Tivoli, but not before having one of these equally beautiful and delicious Smørrebrød! Yum!!

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Finally Tivoli… I’ll let you scroll through the pictures! I really wanted to get great pictures with all the evening lights on, but the Danish sun is a tricky one. And it just won’t go to sleep. Even if the Internets said it was supposed to be in bed by 8:59 PM, it still was asking for a glass of water by 9:15, when we finally left…

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September trip – Fly over

I am getting ready to post some of the souvenirs gathered during our two week vacation in Vikingland. I am going through tons of pictures and flyers, and memorabilia, sorting what is of most interest, and what isn’t so much…

I thought I could give you a little sneak peek before I get to the real posts…

So here are our two weeks, in a picture-a-day sum up:

 

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Copenhagen – Day 1
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Malmö – Day 2
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Stockholm – Day 3
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Stockholm – Day 4
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Stockholm – Day 5
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Göteborg – Day 6
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Oslo – Day 7
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Aalborg – Day 8
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Aalborg – Day 9
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Hobro/Odense – Day 10
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Odense – Day 11
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Copenhagen – Day 12
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Copenhagen – Day 13
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Copenhagen – Day 14
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The return home – Day 15
 

I hope you’ll enjoy the trip down our memory lane…

Fun facts about DK…

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The NHL (National Hockey League) season is on again, after a few months break.

My favorite Danish fun fact is an anecdote that is a link between two of my fav things in life; Denmark and hockey.

On February 12th 1949, in Stockholm, Canada defeated Denmark with a final score of 47-0. (/o\) To people unfamiliar with hockey, this might be of no interest at all. But when you know that a hockey game is played over 3 periods of 20 minutes each, the score becomes a real joke! (Really, how can you score a goal every 1.28 minutes??? Did Denmark know they were allowed to have a goaler in front of the net?)

I often take a minute to imagine the scene… How incredibly discouraging it must have been to play the last minutes… I think that there should be a rule saying that when a team has a 20 goals lead on the opponent, the game simply stops!

But hey! You have the Viking spirit or you don’t… These Danish players fought until the very last minute! Go Danes!!

 

 

Day 11 – Ribe

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Day 11 was off to a good start…

Waiting for the city bus that was about to take me back downtown to catch my train to Ribe, my phone rang… One of the potential hosts I had contacted the day before had a couch to offer in Odense!

Jubi! (Danish for “Yay!”)

The voice on the other end was warm and friendly, and I felt that the nice lady was at least as excited to welcome me, as I was to come visit her… We arranged to meet that evening, and I texted Søren to tell him I had a bed for my two nights in town, and that I’d call the next day to say hi.

I hopped on the train for a short ride that got me to Ribe, a city I didn’t know much about. I didn’t care… Ib had said that it was worth seeing, and I was sure to have fun, no matter what I’d find on my path.

And I wasn’t disappointed, as soon as I got off the coach. Right there, across the street, was the Viking Museum! Hey!! Vikings… I like them Vikings! My first stop was pretty obvious… Museet Ribes Vikinger!

 

 

The two exhibitions (About Ribe’s medieval age and the Christian Vikings) were very interesting, even if they clearly didn’t fit the image we normally have of Vikings. After all the conqueror and bloody fighter depictions I had in the past, it was a bit weird to imagine Vikings setting up farms, and trading stuff…

As you can see on one of the pictures, Ribe is recognized to be Denmark’s oldest city (Danmarks aldste by) and it is pretty incredible to know it celebrated its 1300th anniversary in 2010, knowing that Montréal is presently getting ready for its 375th anniversary 😉

The only heavy rain episode I experienced in Denmark (I know, I was clearly blessed) happened while I was at the museum, while I was snacking in the “restaurant” area. I was tempted by the souvenir boutique, but any item meant more weight on my shoulders, and I promised myself I’d come back some day, to pack up on Viking stuff!

On my way out, I noticed the fire department was celebrating some event… (Danish) hot dog selling, fire trucks watching, and tours around town… It was over when I came back at the end of the day… I wish I had stopped to ask a few questions, but at least, I caught a few pictures!

 

May 15th and 16th meant Pinsedag (Pentecost) celebration in Denmark. Because of that, a lot of Ribe’s stores were closed and pedestrians were not very present in town while I walked around… I must say, it was quite a treat, at least to take pictures!

Here’s a walk around town…

 

 

Like many of European countries, a lot of Danish cities have a Domkirke (cathedral), but Ribe’s is definately worth a visit. It is the oldest Christian church in Denmark, founded during the Viking’s age, under permission of the pagan King Horik I. Ribe’s cathedral is the best preserved Romanesque building in Denmark, but over the years, many architectural styles have been added. It was awarded 2 Michelin stars (I didn’t even know churches could get Michelin stars!)

 

The Commoner’s Tower was built in the years 1300, and stands 52 meters tall. For 4$ (20 Kroner) you can walk your way to the top of the tower and have access to an exhibition on the second floor hall along the cathedral.  I highly recommend it. 4$ VERY well spent, if just for the view from the top of the tower…  But get ready to work those legs!!  And if you really want to get a good sweat, try carrying a 25 pounds backpack!

 

After visiting the cathedral, I stopped by the stand (picture in the “walk around” section) to get a hot dog… Rød pølse (red sausage) version… with a bottle of Cocio. I had heard somewhere that it was one of THE musts I had to try, and I wasn’t disapointed. I was distracted by the bright red color of my sausage, though. My brain kept asking me “are you sure that’s not plastic??” bite after bite… Another good reason to walk a whole lot day after day; I didn’t feel the least bit guilty about my hot dog + chocolate milk “snack”…

Still, my shadow seemed on the chubby side!

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On my way to Odense…

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Previously…

Copenhagen, day 1  / Copenhagen, day 2  / Møn’s Island / Aalborg / Viborg, day 1 /

Viborg, day 2 / Aarhus, day 1  / Aarhus, day 2 / Esbjerg, day 1 / Esbjerg, day 2 /

 

Getting back on the horse…

 

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I bet some of you thought I had an argument with Denmark, which would have led us to go our separate ways a few months ago…

Things couldn’t be much farther from the truth.

I still love Denmark deeply. More than before I visited it, if that is even possible. And that’s exactly why I had to put this blog on “hold” for a while.

I got the after-trip blues. It might sound like a made up thing, but it is a real “condition”… I had read about it on fellow travel Bloggers’ sites. They sure tried to warn me about that sad feeling of not being abroad anymore… But I guess I was just in denial.

Not that I was disappointed to be back home, no way! I was happy to get back to my “normal” life. But every time I listened to a Danish song, or watched a video, or looked at the pictures I had taken during my trip; I ended up with teary eyes, and that just didn’t feel right.

So I put everything in the closet for a while, giving myself time to put a distance between me and Denmark, and let the dust settle.

And now, it is time to get back on the horse! I wish it would be a wild one! (you’ll see what I am talking about when we get to Langeland…)

This Blog is therefore officially re-open!

 

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We’re back in business, and I want to do things right! So no more pressure about posting once every day. I should be able to post once or twice a week, allowing me to put more information about every city I am visiting, more links and more stories…

And don’t you worry! My memories of Denmark are as fresh as when I got off the plane back in Montréal..

I’ll be catching up with my Danish lessons too… and I have a few ideas to help this Blog live on even when I’ll be done telling you about my 11 days left, and revamping the 10 days I already told you about…

A LOT of work ahead of me…. But I am decided, and there is no rush.

You know the fable “The turtoise and the hare”?  Remember who won that race?

Dang yeah! The Turtle

 

 

 

 

 

 

Day 9 – Esbjerg day 1

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Leaving Aarhus was a somewhat stressful experience, since the train indications were not the clearest for once. I even asked employees of the train station, just to be sure I was taking the right ride to Esbjerg, you know? But torn between what I was told and what the Internets were saying, I decided to trust my lady’s sixth sense, and chose not to listen the the Danish Railroad’s workers!!

How lucky for me, one more time! I have to say, if I might make a little “aparté”, that I learned two things during my three weeks journey…

  1. To trust myself. I found out I made better choices when not offered a second opinion, than I would have believed!
  2. To always think positive. Countless times during my trip, I faced situations that didn’t look too good at first… Bad weather, doubts about my upcoming whereabouts, Aarhus in general (LOL) and things like that. But being in Denmark, I always had the reflex to tell myself that everything would turn to the best eventually… How could things go wrong? I was in Vikingland after all! And by some Danish kind of magic, everything in and around Denmark did end up on the good side. (I confess to have more difficulty using all-time positive thinking since I came back to Montréal, but every now and then, I force my self to do so, and I am always pleasantly surprised by life!)

 

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Here is what my standard set up was when I took a train for more than a 45 minutes ride… My loyal tablet, my now-lost-somewhere-in-Skagen water bottle, my now-retired Lumia phone, and not-in-pijamas bananas 🙂

Once on the train, and not worrying anymore about where I would end up, the train controller showed up to check my ticket. I found out, as I was handing the freshly printed pieces of paper to the lady, that I had two receipts, and no ticket per say. In Denmark, boarding a train without a valid ticket leads to a fine (not so fine fine, if you ask me) of a little over 700 kr. (just a little less than 150$) It wouldn’t have been the end of the world, but that was starting to look like a bitter goodbye from Aarhus!

The lady and I discussed a little, and I don’t know if it is the Canadian flags on my packsack, my hush puppy eyes pleading I really had bought my ticket, or the sight of the numerous bus and train tickets I looked through in my bag, hoping to find the ONE to Esbjerg… But she finally told me it was ok for this time, but that I had to be extra careful next time. Heldig mig igen!! (Lucky me, again)

Esbjerg is the largest city on the West coast of Denmark, and has the most important seaport on the North Sea. All I really knew about Esbjerg before getting there, was that it had a very impressive set of 4 statues called “Mennesket ved havet” (Man meets the sea) which was actually the only reason I chose to visit Esbjerg (no offense to the citie’s inhabitants, I am sure there are tons of great things to do around, but I was just foolish like that, wanting to see Esbjerg just because it was on the West Coast and had four really tall men looking at the sea!)

When I got there, the weather wasn’t actually great. It was pretty chilly, compared to what I had accustomed to during my first days of vacation, and the wind was pretty strong. I walked a bit downtown, had a McDonald’s cheeseburger, just to get WI-FI (and because I was hungry too). After visiting the Tourists’ Bureau, I decided that I’d better head to my hostel right away and decide what to do from there…

 My home in Esbjerg, the Danhostel! No, I was not the only guest, but I must admit that we were just a few… Which is great, since I got the 4 bunk beds room all to myself! 

It was about supper time, and I decided to go to the grocery store and get myself something yummy yummy for my tummy, since I had access to a fully equiped kitchen. I finally toned down my cooking frenzy, bought rye bread, sausage, two pots of bread spread, and some remoulade (all of my goodies costing me under 10$ total) and walked back “home”…

My loot… It might look basic, but I am just not a fancy eater!

I made myself comfortable in my new home, ate my meal at the round table by the open window, and enjoyed a good hot shower before preparing to hit the sack. I puffed my white duvet while thinking about visiting the four tall men the next morning, and fell fast asleep, once again, still happy in Denmark…


Previously…

Copenhagen, day 1  / Copenhagen, day 2  / Møn’s Island / Aalborg / Viborg, day 1 /

Viborg, day 2 / Aarhus, day 1  / Aarhus, day 2