Moving to Silkeborg…

 

Already Monday morning, and the sun greeted me through the room’s large window.

 

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Oliver, the house’s dog didn’t seem ready to say goodbye.

 

Time to say goodbye to Helsingør, although I kind of wished I didn’t have to… After a hot shower, and packing up my few belongings, I went downstairs to thank my host for the lovely stay. With a little time left on my hand, she invited me in the garden to share a glass of homemade green juice, over a little conversation.

She also had to leave the house, work was calling for her, and walking me halfway to the train station, suddenly asked me if I wanted her to drop me off.

I don’t like to be a bother, but a free ride is always welcome, so I accepted gratefully, thinking she would leave me at Helsingør’s station. But I was in luck, and working in the capital, my host was actually taking me all the way down to Copenhagen!

So I had the chance to see what the commute was like, for non-Copenhageners who had to travel back and forth for their job! And the ride was much more interesting, discussing life in Denmark, and sharing family souvenirs than if I had been alone in the train.

I felt really lucky. If you read this, dear L, know that this ride was worth well more than the kroner saved for the train ticket!

 

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Mc Donald’s advertisment at København H station. Ha!

 

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Life is good when you know how to appreciate the little things, and here’s one that put a smile on my face… While going through the station to find my bus stop, a juice company was doing some promotion for a new smoothie. And they were offering a free bottle to every traveler passing them by. Free breakfast for the bus? Yes, please! Good morning to you!

 

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This is the back of København H… Maybe not that interesting as a picture, but I just felt like bragging about the still amazing weather we had! A bit fresh, but I’d never complain with such a clear sky.

 

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Aalborg? Tempting, but you’ll have to wait a little!

 

I have to thank my Silkeborg host for making me discover the Flixbus company. Flixbus is a low budget bus company that has rides all over Europe, and can make you save tons of money! My ride from Copenhagen to Silkeborg was pretty much half price with them, and not really longer than if I had used the regular train or bus. The busses are on time, are very comfortable and offer wi-fi. I really recommend it! Win-Win-Win.

Now, the next pictures were taken from the bus, and I didn’t even have a window seat… So you’ll have to excuse the framing, the reflections of the glass and the sometimes slight blurriness.

 

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Rape fields in the back… I LOVE rape fields in bloom!

 

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Did I mention rape fields? Awwwwww…

 

 

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Getting over the bridge to Fyn Island

 

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Little (blurry) lighthouse… (I had a thought for you, Sonofa!)

 

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I really have a thing for big wind mills… Don’t ask me why

 

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I obviously had to take this picture… I wonder if Miss Freja is missing me, a little?

 

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My Silkeborg host met me right at the bus station. We had a good talk while walking around town, and went grocery shopping for dinner. It was lovely to discover this new city by the lake. I haven’t had the chance to explore it much yet, but above are a couple of shots from the shore, near the apartment where I am staying.

The evening was spent discussing about Denmark and our lives… It is interesting to have a foreigner’s point of view, since my host, while living in Denmark for the last decades, is an English man.

 

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I was treated with a nice and copious supper, and we ended the night with an introduction to Crib over a hot cup of tea…

But the duvet waiting is still Danish, hehehehe!

Helsingør & Fredensborg…

You’d think that sleeping under one of them magical Danish duvets would be good enough a reason to stay in bed really late and get the much needed rest I’ve been craving for, for what seems like months now.

But yesterday night, I had the (bad) idea of checking sunrise time for this morning, in Helsingør. Which was just barely after 5 am.

So of course, I was wide awake by four,  and even if I knew it would be kind of cold outside, I finally put on my leggings and dressed like an onion under my Spring vest, and I trotted to the harbour.

 

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It was incredibly still by the water. Aside a couple of fishermen getting ready to sail away, I was the only soul around, and I waited patiently for the show to start.

 

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Swedes were nice enough to keep some clouds on their side of the Øresund! How considerate! So, when the sun finally peeked over the horizon, the colors had much more texture than I had expected.

 

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No, these trees aren’t on fire!

I walked back ”home”, my body suddenly realizing that it was in fact just a little past five, and that the cold wan’t fun anymore, now that the sun was up. Luckily, I had tea on the kitchen shelf, and my fingers found their natural pinkish color, wrapped around the warm mug!

Next was the visit of Kronborg Castle, but it opened only at 11 am, so I had some time to lazy out in my little hyggekrog.

 

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Welcome to the castle!

 

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 The inner court throught the main entrance

 

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A little view around, from atop the tower…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

In Kronborg, I took a guided tour called ”The Royal Baquet” and unlike usual tours, this one was pretty special. A performer playing the role of the Lady in charge of having everything ready for the arrival of the King and Queen to the castle walked us around, as if we were guests for the Royal baquet taking place two days later. It ended up being almost more like a play than a visit, and I forgot to take my camera out, just enjoying the show! If you are visiting Kronborg, ask for the guided visit schedule. They are free, aswell as very entertaining.

Two fun facts to make up for my lack of pictures… Kronborg was built under the reign of Frederik II, on the already existing fortress. And Frederik’s son, Christian, who became king himself some years later is the subject of one of Mew’s songs:

 

Back to King Frederik II who, apparently, enjoyed entertaining crowds very much. When he and Queen Sophia held big banquets, the king gave ”Canon toasts”. Several times, during the evening, he would hold his glass in the air. To this sight, drumms would go rolling. And outside the castle, some horns were blown, giving the signal to fire the canons around the castle, making a surprising display of Frederik’s power. The sudden vibrations would make some of the ballroom windows to blow in, which amused the guests. Celebrations often being on a period of many days back then, the guest would come back to the ballroom the next day to see the windows all repaired. Yet another display of the Kings great wealth, since glasswear was extremely expensive at that time!

 

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Meet Holger the Dane! The legend says that Holger will stay asleep in the casemates of Kronborg Castle, until Denmark gets in real trouble. That day, it is said that he will wake up to fight to defend the Mother Country. But nothing to worry about, everybody can sleep safe and sound: Holger’s still there, sleeping.

 

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Here’s one of my personal favorite Dannebrog pictures. I don’t know what it is exactly about it… Maybe the nice contrast on the deep blue sky, maybe the way it thrones right in the middle of the picture. Or maybe it is because of the fluffy clouds giving the impression that the canons have actually been shot! I don’t know, but I really really like it!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 A couple more pictures, on my way out…

 

When I returned to my temporary home to get ready for what I had planned next, I found my host spending the afternoon with her mother on the back patio. When I crashed in to announce I’d be back later after the falconry show, I was kindly offered a ride to Falkonergården, instead of taking the bus to Fredensborg. I didn’t want to disturb the mother-daughter meeting, but was assured it was fine, and that it’d give them a chance to take Oliver, my new dog-friend, on a little trip out too.

I got the chance to have a nice chat with my host’s mom, who, had lived in Toronto in her younger years… It is a small world. Life always makes sure to remind me of it.

So… Lucky me got in the car, with my lovely host, her mother and Oliver, and we rode through the countryside where I was dropped off in this little falconry: Falkonergården

 

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I was a bit early, so before the doors to the actual falconry opened, I got the chance to go see the Icelandic horses of the little domaine… I even got to pet one, as a matter of fact he pretty much asked for the forehead rub!

 

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How do you say no to such beautiful eyes?

 

If you visit the Fredensborg area, and are intested in seeing the Falkonergården show, make sure to visit their website first, before you show up. For an example, this month of May, the only performance of the week occurs on Sundays.

The whole show is about an hour long, and important thing to know for foreigners, it is almost entirely in Danish. The trainer does give some of the information in both Danish and English, and a sheet with some more details about the different birds is provided to follow up, but don’t expect to get everything!

The show is worth it nonetheless. The first part takes place indoor, where three of the smaller prey birds are brought in, one at a time, to perform while the trainer explains their origin, the specifics of each bird and how they were used in falconry over the different eras.

I must say that having these little hunters flying around in such a closed space was pretty impressive.

 

 

 

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Regardless the language barrier, it is obvious that the trainer is very enthusiastic and loves her little (sometimes not so little) feathery friends very much. After each presentation, she walks around the room to give everyone a chance to snap a picture or two. Unfortunately, the birds are more into ”feed me” time rather than ”Oh! you want a good picture, here’s my best profile” time… So most of my shots are either blurry, or of a hawk’s back of the head… LOL

The second part takes place outdoor. There, the larger prey birds get their chance to wow us, and they do that well! We get asked, before the beginning of the second act, to sit on the left if we want the birds to fly just above our heads, and to the right if we’d rather not. Don’t take that question lightly, because I the eagle flew so close to me, that I got hit in the face by its wing. No worries, I wasn’t harmed in any way, but if you think you might be sightly scared of large birds with huge claws, sit to the right!

 

 

 

 

 

 

The last part is a demonstration of the way people used prey birds to hunt, horseback riding. That’s when our little friend from the beginning comes to the stage!

 

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Yup, I rubbed that fluffy star’s head!!

 

At the end of the show, you can ask all your questions, and have a chat with the trainer… It also gives everybody a chance to get a couple of more pictures!

 

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Another great day behind… Already looking for the next one to come! But for the moment, it was time to walk back to the train station and get back ”home”.

 

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First time in Helsingør…

This morning (thank you very much jetlag!) at 5h30 I was awake in my bunk bed.

There is nothing worst in a dormatory, than one person rolling around over and over and over again, trying to get back to sleep. So I went downstairs to have breakfast. (and fix yesterday’s post)

Now, note that two days ago, I wasn’t sure yet if I would visit Helsingør. I knew I had to visit it someday, I knew it was probably worth visiting, but I didn’t feel anything special about the city. It is actually what I am doing tomorrow that made me book a cute little room, (really more of a flat, but I’ll have to make a post just on lodging, because otherwise, I’ll never go to sleep tonight LOL) and take the train.

But before that…

 

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Bye bye Nyhavn (and Copenhagen, in general)!

 

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Only 45 mintutes away from Copenhagen, and with a departure every twenty minutes, there is really no good reason, to at least give Helsingør a chance, right?

Right.

But before we get there, let me give you a little warning, just in case you fall in love with Helsingør too, and you suddenly want to travel there… Like Copenhagen, Helsingør is just a stone’s throw away from Sweden. But unlike Copenhagen, the name of the city just the other side of the Øresund isn’t completely different, like ”Malmö”. No… I guess someone back in the Viking days, thought ”Wouldn’t it be funny if we called the two cities almost the same??” And apparently, people thought it was a good idea, and so you have it… Helsingør and Helsinborg!

So when you start doing your research for lodging, or transportation, be careful. Because for some reason, Google often does not make a difference at all between the two cities, and I’d hate it for you, if you found yourself having to take the ferry back and forth, just to see Helsingør’s best spots!

 

First glimpse, from the train station.

 

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No, this is not a church, it is Helsingør’s HUGE train station! I didn’t expect this. 

 

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The ferries between Helsingør and Helsinborg go back and forth all day (obviously carrying people that Google has messed with) at a rate of one every 20 minutes, or so. A great way to go see if the grass is greener on the other side. (it isn’t!! LOL) This is the view from the train station, so no worries about getting lost!

 

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Still from in front of the train station. I just had to look to my left, to spot Helsingør’s main attraction: Kronborg! (see the teeny tiny castle in the back? Yeah, that’s Kronborg)

 

 

I don’t know if it was just the weather, but I doubt it. Helsingør’s heart is very alive, and people like to mingle in the street as they go shopping, are out for a drink or a bite, or just felt like waling around. As I joined the crowed, I discovered a very impressive and popular flea market going on…

 

 

 

St-Mary’s Church

 

P.S. First time I see a church with facing benches…

 

Helsingør’s Domkirke

Just a word about the picture of the tree… I asked a lady working at the church, because the pamphlet was only in Danish, and she kindly explained that when children got baptised at the Domkirke, a little apple with their name embroided on it was hung to the tree. And after some years, there was a new celebration, where the children got their apple back! I thought it was a nice tradition!

Now for the second part of my little walk…

 

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Just so cute (have you noticed the rainbow on the right?)

 

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Arriving at the harbour

 

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The Culture Yard

 

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There only for a while, this (huge) traveling art piece is made of recycled items

 

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The sculpture of Han (”He” in Danish), a clear reference to Copenhagen’s Little Mermaid.

 

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Now here’s a funny story. For my first three trips to Denmark, my first night was always spent aboard the Hawila, a sailing boat stationned in Kastrup. This time, when I tried to book my bunk bed, I couldn’t find their add on Airbnb. I wrote directly to the crew, mentionning that, and a lady answered that they had started sailing and wouldn’t be in Copenhagen for my arrival… You can imagine my surprise, when I found it here in Helsingør!! What were the odds?

 

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Han with the Hawila

 

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The next pictures have been taken around Kronborg, and I won’t comment all of them, since I’ll be visiting the castle tomorrow. I’ll tell you all about it then. But this one, I just had to bring your attention to. Have I ever mentionned I love Danish humor? Can you see where it is on this picture?

 

Kronborg

 

 

Even if you don’t have the time or budget to visit the castle, take a walk around it. The path follows the shore, and you’ll find many many hyggelig spots where the locals come to relax, spend time with friends and family, and fish.

 

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Herculese & the Hydra

 

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It made me smile that Helsingør’s Street Food is actually indoors! But it is a great place to go if you have an empty belly and are looking for the cool place in town! The building is packed with foodtruck-like stands that offer all kinds of fast and delicious looking food. The choice is pretty eclectic, I would recommend going with some friends to order from many of the restaurants, and share your common loot!

 

The walk back ”home”

I just wanted to mention a couple of stores I’ve seen along my Helsingør wanderings:

 

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Tiger! Because it is my favorite Danish store.

 

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*Wink wink* to Harry Potter fans (I know it’s not his name… I am making an effort here!)

 

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Paradis.. The paradise of ice cream lovers! 

 

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Yes, Helsingør’s shopping mall. Because it is not all about pretty pictures and funny stories.. It’s about tips not to spend your last dime in Denmark and swear never to go back again!! Anyone will be able to tell you where the Bycenter is, and inside, you have a huge Føtex waiting just for you…

 

Oh! Oh! Oh! and on a personal note (most people won’t understand, but I know Suzanne will…)

 

 

 

 

 

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Woa Suzunne! Even the Danes do it!